Guidelines for the Home Owner
*Use a Scott's Speedy Green walk behind spreader for easy application by setting the spreader number listed on product bag
March 1st:
- Core aerate - this maintains the thatch layer by causing it to decompose into humus. It also loosens up the soil to avoid compaction, which prevents turf from growing.
April 1st:
- Spring seeding – see the seed bag label to know what you are getting – tri-cultivar turf type tall fescues are best for non-irrigated
lawns. Otherwise use the traditional perennial blue-rye mix (avoid annuals). Apply starter fertilizer if you seeded – can put down when you seed. This would be a straight fertilizer with no herbicide, and a good amount of phosphorus (i.e. 15-24-8 [Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium)
April 1st - 15th:
- Apply pre-emergent if you have annuals (crab/goose grass, etc) ONLY if NOT spring seeding. If you seed, and then apply pre-emergent, you will also stop the seed you put down from germinating. Pre-emergents can be pendi (pendimethalin), prodiamine (barricade), dithiopyr (dimension).
May 1st – June 1st:
- Spray broadleaf herbicide as needed.
June 1st:
- Apply granular insecticide if desired. Grubs will appear if Jap Beetles/Masked Chafers lay eggs in soft soil areas. Accelypryn, a professional product, is applied earlier. Grubs eat turf roots and can severely damage yards.
- Do not apply any granular fertilizer during hot weather to any non-irrigated lawns to prevent burn, unless all-organic (Roots, NatureSafe, Milorganite)
September 1st:
- Fall seeding if needed. See the seed bag label to know what you are getting – tri-cultivar turf type tall fescues are good for
non-irrigated lawns. Otherwise use the traditional perennial blue-rye mix (avoid annuals). Apply starter fert.
September 15th - October 15th:
- Apply weed and feed (this is the best time!) if NOT fall seeding. The herbicide will prevent any seed you put down from germinating. This is the most effective time to control weeds in turf, and, if there are many, you may consider applying weed and feed both on Sept 15th and again on Oct 15th if you can afford the extra cost. If you want to pay a contractor to spray, you could for additional efficacy. Fert applied at this time is most effective and efficient for your lawn. Your lawn will send these nutrients to the roots for winter storage, and will be ready for spring!
October – November 1st:
- Core aerate (rental shops have garden tractor pull/walk behind aerators). Let cores dissipate – this maintains the thatch layer by causing it to decompose into humus. It also loosens up the soil to avoid compaction, which prevents turf from growing. Water will go down into these holes, freeze, and consequently break up soil.
November 1st:
- Apply fall fertilizer/winterizer (i.e. 18-0-24).
For further free detailed Information on turf topics:
https://turf.purdue.edu/homeowner.htmlPurdue Turf Extension Specialist Dr. Aaron Patton:
ajpatton@purdue.edu
